Mo once took the Jeep to Florida, and Sag fixed the intermittent wipers in his anger.  Another time nine people took it on a camping trip that ended poorly, with no camping.

It went to Pittsburgh twice, getting towed only once.  It had a laptop mount, because that’s important.  We yelled at passers-by with a megaphone until the police made us stop.

It got pulled over by the police more times than anyone can remember, and even had its license plates confiscated in the name of gross irresponsibility.

Sure, it crashed into some things unintentionally, but that never caused a real problem.  It was unstoppable, until it stopped.

One person peed themselves in the back seat, and another person vomited all across the side.  It helped move numerous people into and out of dorms, apartments, and houses.  It sometimes leaked oil in irritation.

Eventually it started to feel its age.  If the oil pump is like the heart and the air conditioning is like the sweat glands, then it was seriously fucked.   Also, the windows wouldn’t work, and those are like eyelids.

So now let us bow our heads and pretend to be serious and look at these pictures.

That was my impetus for installing a kWh meter inline with my Level 2 charger,  a project that you can read about here.

I’m going to periodically update this post with fresh data as it becomes available, and the numbers below cover the period 6/13/2011 through 6/27/2011.

The electric rate used is based upon my last bill (our rates don’t fluctuate much anyhow), it takes into account all per-kWh taxes and fees, and we do not pay different rates based upon time of day.  Electrical service is provided by the Long Island Power Authority.

Those figures come from a spreadsheet that you can download here (Microsoft Excel 2007 format).  Please feel free to plug in your own electric rate if you want to get an idea of a Volt’s charging cost in your area.

Because the Volt’s computer tracks EV Miles (miles traveled on battery), the calculations are fairly simple:  I subtract the first EV Miles reading taken from the last EV Miles reading, and subtract the first kWh reading from the last.  Dividing those two figures yields the Miles / kWh, and the rest is pretty self-explanatory.

One minor caveat:  Some battery (the “buffer zone“) can be consumed while running on gas.  Recharging that portion of the battery is reflected in my kWh numbers, but is not reflected in the EV Miles.  That’s not necessarily a bad thing because it will make the cost per EV mile slightly higher than it should be, and we’re still saving quite a bit of money on a per-EV Mile basis regardless.

Over her lifetime, Sparky has traveled 82% of her miles in electric mode, and 18% in gas mode.

As you can see, the bottom line is that it costs about $1.85 to travel 35 miles in Sparky.  In my area gas prices are about $4.13/gal. (as of last time I filled up my Jeep), and that is what it would cost to travel the same distance in a car that gets a real-world 35 MPG.

My Jeep Wrangler gets around 13 MPG, and so it costs me a whopping $11.12 to travel 35 miles.  (Geez, this is the first time I’ve actually done that calculation and it’s kinda scary).  You can see why my wife and I take Sparky whenever we go anywhere together — it saves us about $9.27 on a 35 mile trip!

To go even further, let’s look at the cost/mile of a few cars*:

Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited (13 MPG):  $0.30

Saab 9-3 SE Convertible (27 MPG): $0.15

Toyota Prius 11 (51 MPG): $0.08

Chevrolet Volt (Electric only):  $0.05

Nissan Leaf:  $0.05

*The figures for the Saab, Jeep, and Volt are based upon my own readings with my and/or my wife’s driving habits.  The figure for the Prius is based upon a non-PHEV-converted vehicle, using Toyota’s highest MPG figure.   The Leaf’s cost is estimated based upon the 3.4 miles/kWh supplied by the EPA.  And I’ll even use a lower gas cost of $4/gal. to prevent octane-related arguments.

In case you’re wondering why I’m using 35 miles for most of my comparisons:  The Volt gets about 35 miles per charge (usually more), on gas 35 MPG is between our real-world usage and the window sticker rating, and it seems to be that other comparably-equipped 4-door cars land near the 35 MPG mark (according to their window stickers, anyhow).

I’m looking for feedback on my calculations or reasoning, so please email me or let me know what you think in the comments.   The numbers should be more accurate as I accumulate more sample time.

In the first phase, I ran a new dedicated circuit from the subpanel in my garage to the opposite wall to connect a 120V charging station.  In this phase, I removed the existing receptacle, rewired for 240V, installed the Voltec Level 2 charging station, and wired the kWh meter inline.

It’s not my intent to write a full set of instructions for installation here.  The purpose of this post is to illustrate some of the installation steps with real-world pictures, which are somewhat hard to come by online (the pictures are rather small, but you can click on any of them for a larger version).

As with all electrical installations, follow all manufacturer directions, specifications, and applicable local/national codes when installing your equipment.

The first step was ordering the Voltec Charge Station from SPX.  Information can be found here:

https://www.homecharging.spx.com/volt/Display.aspx?id=7&menu=14

The charging station is listed at $499 on the site.  For some reason, my invoice showed the price as $490 (obviously not a problem).  Shipping was free, and with tax my total was $532.26.

Ordering from SPX was easy;  Their sales rep was very helpful, and because I’d previously applied for their “free” charging station they already had my info on file.  I had placed my order in the afternoon on 5/31, and had delivery the morning of 6/6, putting it under a quite respectable 4 business days (hooray for UPS).

The contents of the Voltec Charge Station package: Instructions, warranty information, and the charging station itself.

The charging station comes fully assembled, and the instructions are very straight-forward.  One caveat with the warranty:  If you do a self-installation, the warranty period is one year, versus three years when you have the unit professionally installed.  In my opinion, self-install is still the way to go, because a professional installation can easily cost more than buying a second charger should the first one fail.

To start the installation, you will need a Torx driver.  I had bought a set a few months ago (which I needed just to replace the air filter in Amanda’s old Saab — a rant for another day), which attach to a standard 3/8″ drive head.  That makes taking out the six screws a breeze:

Opening the back with a Torx driver. It's just a coincidence that my Ridgid driver matches the charge station, I swear.

I put the unit face down on cardboard to avoid scratching it.  Next step is separating the two halves, minding the ribbon cable that connects them.

The cover removed from the charging station

The connector on the ribbon cable simply pulls out of its mate on the circuit board.  Don’t worry about how the pins line up — it’s keyed to only reattach one way.

The circuity in the charging station is surprisingly simple.   The Volt has the bulk of the charging logic on-board.  If I’m not mistaken, the charging station just has some thermal and ground-fault protection, and logic to analyze the building wiring so that it knows it’s safe to pass the power on to the car.

A close-up of the charging station's PCB and wiring connections.

I couldn’t resist taking apart the charging station first, but had to get back to the business of prepping the wiring for 240 Volts.

This started with removing the 120V receptacle.  I was careful to cut the hole for the receptacle where I thought the wiring connector for the Voltec would land, and also so that the charging station would cover it completely.  (That turned out pretty well, which was partially dumb luck on my part).

The existing receptacle unit and box came out easily.

I disconnected the receptacle unit and left as much wire as possible in tact.  I also stripped the sheath off the armored cable by a bit more — you’ll see later that I just barely had enough wiring left inside the unit to make up the connections.

Next step was changing the temporary 120V connections in the breaker panel over to 240V.

The Voltec circuit is attached to the breaker in the upper-left.

This was probably the least complicated step of the installation and involved moving the red wire in the upper-left from its very temporary connection at the neutral buss over to the second pole of the breaker.

The next step was wiring the meter.  I thought the meter was a must-have, because it will allow me to get very accurate numbers as far as KWh/mile, and therefore $/mile.  There are a lot of numbers floating around online, but this will let me make calculations based upon my Volt (well, Amanda’s Volt), with my electric rates.

Installing a meter is neither expensive nor difficult.  I got the head on eBay (used/reconditioned) for $36 all-in, and the socket from Home Depot for $25.  And it’s just a few extra electrical connections:

Meter wiring with #6 pigtails.

Connecting the meter socket’s terminals were not as straightforward as I’d hoped, but not all that complicated once you realize what’s going on in that picture.

The label on the pan specifies that the terminal lugs for the line/load (“hot”) connections can accept a minimum of #8 AWG wiring, with a maximum of #2/0.  Since the circuit is only 20A and therefore wired with #12 AWG, a problem arises.

Label showing details of the meter pan. As with all pictures in this post, click to enlarge.

Fortunately the solution was simple:  I pigtailed some #6 wire onto the #12, then made the connections.  I used #6 both because I had it laying around, and because I had wire nuts that permitted the connection of #12 and #6 wire.

The “neutral” terminals (which I’m using to bond the box to ground as there is no neutral conductor in this installation) can accept my #12 wire.

With those connections made, the meter head plugged in, and the cover in place, I fired it up for a test (I capped the wires hanging out of the wall first).

Zero kWh!

That lead to some good feedback for the eBay seller.  Of course, I have no idea of the degree of accuracy of this meter.  I’m willing to assume that it’s accurate enough for my purposes.

Now back to the Voltec Charge Station.  That’s probably why you’re reading this post to begin with, but this part of the installation can’t be easier.  You just need two screws to attach this thing to the wall (I’d recommend hitting a stud if you have a framed garage — the unit is light, but the charging cable is quite heavy and I wouldn’t trust drywall anchors to hold it).  Then it’s 3 screw terminals for the wiring and you’re done!  Well, almost done.  As you’ll see, attaching the cover can be a problem if you’re not prepared.

Charging station mounted and wired.

I used ceramic-coated 3″ deck screws and a couple of washers for mounting.  They’re a little beefier than drywall screws (plus I had them laying around).  I don’t think a thick lag screw is really necessary for the weight of the unit/cable.

Three electrical connections is all it takes:

Close-up of the wiring connections.

I didn’t trim the leads for the supply wires at all.  The length just happened to work out very well, which saved me some extra time re-running the cable up to the meter.  (It’s hard to tell in the picture, but there’s about a half-inch clearance between the PCB and the supply wires, and they’re laid in there quite comfortably).

The final step is applying the cover, and turning on the power.  Applying the cover was one of those things that annoys me about engineers.  The screws attach from the back, and are flared out at maybe 30 degrees from the wall.

It was really just dumb luck that I had this drive head sitting around in my garage.

This makes reattaching the cover a minor pain in the neck.  If you don’t have a little Torx driver (or driver head), go out and get one before starting this project.  I forgot what size I needed, but get a set of them.  Torx screws seem to always pop up when you least expect/want them to.

Why the engineers that designed this thing couldn’t use hex-head screws is beyond me.  Pretty much everyone has Allen keys around from old Ikea projects or whatnot, and they’re ideal for this sort of tight space.

It wasn’t all bad, though.  I was able to get the screws seated just by hand tightening.

And here’s the result:

The finished installation!

The installation as described above took just a little over an hour.  Of course, I did the bulk of the prep work in Phase I, and that project took more than a few hours.

If you have any questions or want any additional details, please post in the comments below.

Postscript

I wanted to comment on the build quality of the Voltec Charge Station.  I was neither impressed nor disappointed with the unit itself.

As I wrote earlier, the charging station is not heavy at all.  I can’t say that it feels flimsy, but the edges around the cover are rather thin plastic, and it’s almost hard to believe that it’s a weather-tight enclosure suitable for outdoor use.  Let’s just say that it definitely has the feel of a residential appliance.

The charge cord is quite heavy. The ship weight of the charging station is 18 lbs., and the cord could easily account for 12 lbs. of that weight.  I only bring that up because I’ve seen lighter cords attached to heavier-built units that eventually worked their way loose from their mounting points.

But wait, the charge cord also isn’t heavy enough! The conductors in the charge cord that carry the full charge current, approximately 15A, are 14 gauge.   While I’m sure that’s technically sufficient to satisfy any safety requirements, the cord still becomes quite warm while the Volt is connected and charging.  12 gauge wire would have been a better choice (IMHO), but of course would have made the cord heavier still.

Finally, I don’t like the fact that the cord is coiled.  I vaguely remember from childhood something called a “corded phone” (well, we called it a “phone”).   The sound clarity was great, but do you remember what eventually happened to all of those curly cords?  Have you ever had to untangle one?  Sure you have.  And it sucks.

Despite all of these complaints, the Voltec Charge Station is your best bet for the money.  I don’t see a need for a heavier-duty unit in my garage, and though $500 isn’t cheap, I could buy 4 of these things for what a low-end commercial grade charging station might cost.   The heat emitted by the cable is a concern, but it’s due to the #14 wire and not a defective unit.  I will be keeping a close eye on it, however.

The coiled cord?  Replacing that might be a project for another day.  Maybe in a year when the warranty is up anyhow, I’ll see if I can find a suitable replacement with #12 conductors.

Of course, the whole point point behind a PHEV is the actual plugging in.  The Volt comes with a 120V charger that plugs into your average 15A receptacle, and can fully charge the car in about 10 hours.

Chevrolet’s charging station partner, SPX, sells a variety of Level 2 charging stations compatible with the Volt (and most plug-in electric vehicles, including the Nissan Leaf).  The Level 2 charging stations use 240V, and can charge the Volt in about 4 hours.  We’re going to be getting the least expensive charger, the Voltec, for installation in our garage.  That’s going to be “Phase II” of this project.

Phase I consists of getting wiring in place that will eventually be used by the Level 2 charger, temporarily configured for Level 1 (120V) charging using a standard receptacle.

I’m fortunate to have an electrical sub-panel in my garage, so wiring the new charging station is going to be relatively easy.  The twist is that I put an electric meter in-line so that I can monitor Sparky’s energy usage.

Here’s a pictorial overview of the project:

My sub-panel was almost full, and I had to move a breaker down to the bottom-right to make room for a double pole breaker.  The feeder is protected by a 50A breaker on the main panel — the 100A main breaker pictured is just used as a disconnect.

I ran some EMT from the panel up into the garage attic.  The charging station is going to be positioned on the opposite wall, and I wanted to run the wiring hidden on that side of the garage.

In the garage attic, the EMT terminates at a junction box so I can transition to MC for an easier run across the attic and down the garage wall.  I needed about a 5″ offset because the finished wall in the garage is proud of the wall pictured (which is actually the side of my house).

THWN waiting to be connected to the MC wiring.  All wires are #12.

The main reason I didn’t use EMT in the attic is because there are a lot of turns in tight places.  This cable is fed from the upper-right of this picture after it passes overhead between the roof rafters.  It’s fed through the top plate of the wall below in the lower-left.  The next picture shows where it terminates.

Cable from the attic, along with a jumper that will go between the meter and the charging station.

Here’s the meter pan and the box for a temporary 120V receptacle.  (More on that to come).  The wires are coming out of the bottom of the box because I left some extra slack in the wall for the eventual mounting of the Level 2 charging station (which doesn’t require a box).

VERY IMPORTANT: In the next few pictures there are things shown that you should not imitate.  They show temporary wiring that will only be serviced by me, and it will be gone within the week.

New circuit wired to a new double-pole breaker.  Note that I have used a red wire as a neutral.  That is an incorrect practice according to the NEC, and general logic.  In about a week, this circuit will be converted to 240V by moving the red wire to the other pole of the breaker in the upper-left.

This is the junction box in the garage attic.  I’ve re-labeled the white conductor in the MC red, which is incorrect when it’s used as a grounded conductor (neutral).  It is acceptable practice for the future use as a 240V circuit.

The meter I purchased requires a 240V circuit, so for now the meter socket connections are bypassed, and there is plenty of extra slack left on the wires.  Again, what’s pictured is not the correct practice for wiring a 120V circuit, as the white neutral wire has been re-labeled red, indicating it is “hot”.  Also, without the meter in place this box can’t be adequately covered, which is also incorrect.  The neutral terminals have here been used both to connect the two grounding wires, and to bond the box to the grounding wire from the panel.  I believe this is acceptable practice, and though the terminals look large, the plate on the meter pan does permit a minimum of #14 wire under those terminals.

The receptacle unit is wired and ready to go into the box.  Note that this is not a “back stab” connection.  The wires are attached by compression terminals.  It’s also a duplex receptacle, which should not be used on a dedicated circuit, but again, this is temporary.

The meter socket and Level 1 charger.  I forgot the exact meaning of the lights on the charger, but I do know that the top two lights would indicate a wiring fault if they were anything but both green.  So it appears I have success!  One last note on safety:  The meter socket looks incredibly dangerous in this picture, as the contacts are, shall we say, overly accessible.  I just want to point out again that those contacts are not connected to the circuit.  This box is still unsafe because it’s improperly covered without the meter in place, but there are no exposed live conductors.  Again, this is very temporary.

Here’s Sparky, enjoying her first meal in the garage.

Stay tuned for Phase II of the project, when all will be made right with the electrical wiring, and our new 240V Level 2 charging station will be installed!

Update (2011-06-07): The new Voltec Charge Station is installed!  Check out the new post:

Installing Our New 240V/Level 2 Voltec Charge Station (Phase II)

It’s a brand-spankin’-new Chevrolet Volt, purchased from Arnold Chevrolet in West Babylon, NY.  They had the last black Volt in all of Long Island.

Sparky. This is the only picture I have right now, and doesn't really do her justice.

First Impression

I didn’t really have any pre-conceived notions about Chevys, and have never owned one.  But we did have a 2005 Acura TL for a few years, and that’s the closest vehicle to which I can compare the Volt in overall build quality, fit, finish and features.  The Volt is comparable in price to a TL (discounting the $7,500 tax credit), and in my opinion is in the same class.  Hell, the front end of the Volt even looks similar to the last production TL design.  The rear end looks quite sexy, especially in black because the small rear glass panel blends in seamlessly.

Before settling on the Volt, we test-drove a bunch of vehicles in the $35,000ish price range:  The 2010 and 2011 Acura TSX (V4 and V6 versions), 2011 Acura TL, 2011 Volkwagon CC, 2011 Nissan Maxima, 2011 Volvo S60, and, of course, the 2011 Chevy Volt.

Amanda had been driving a 2003 Saab 9-3 SE convertible, and for all its foibles (that’s a post for another day), that thing was fast.  I mean really fast.  Only the Volvo S60 came close to the Saab’s pick-up.  The Volt is difficult to compare, due to its smooth electric drive.  However…

In “sport” mode, the Volt will push you back in your seat. That was a big concern for us when we were considering an electric car.  It’s really not tree-huggingly-sluggish as you might think.  I doubt it could keep up with the ol’ Saab, but in my opinion it blew the Acuras, CC, and Maxima out of the water.

The Volt’s “infotainment” (I hate that “word”) center is pretty well put together.  The interface could use some polish, but for a first-generation product it’s quite nice.  It does just about anything you’d want it to do (Bluetooth phone connection, HDD and USB MP3 playback, CD, XM, AM/FM, traffic, nav, climate control, power monitoring, and then some).  The console is laid out far differently than what we’ve seen in any other car, but it definitely has a more futuristic and, more importantly, integrated look than most.  (For example, in the CC and the Volvo it looks like they stuck an off-the-shelf radio into the dash and made the “dusting off the hands” motion).

The Gas Engine

Another one of our concerns was the transition from battery power to gas-generated power.  We didn’t get a chance to test drive a Volt with a depleted battery, and my supposition was that the car would lose a lot of it’s “oomph” on the gas engine alone.

We were quite pleasantly surprised with the performance on gas. There’s a slightly noticeable difference in acceleration, but nothing earth shattering.  It’s not like going from a V6 to a V4.  More like just losing a few horsepower.  (Very scientific, I know.  But that’s the best I can do with the measuring tools at hand:  My butt in a seat).

Though as I gather from an official Chevy video about the Voltec propulsion system, when the car switches over to the gas engine, it still accesses a “buffer zone” in the battery for rapid acceleration using battery + generator power.  I have no idea what happens to performance when that buffer zone is depleted.

Sparky’s Gas Usage

We took delivery of the Volt on 4/28/2011 with a full tank (9 gallons).  Sparky still has over half a tank left 20 days later.

In total it has racked up:

502 miles total, 380 EV miles (electric only), and 122 miles on gas.

Sparky has 6 gallons of gas left, meaning she’s used about 3 gallons.

That works out to approximately 40.7 MPG when solely on the gas engine.  A very impressive real-world number.  I can’t say exactly how that hashes out as far as highway vs. city driving, but Amanda does a decent amount of both.

Oh, the coolest part?  I got the above numbers on my phone, using the OnStar app for Android.  While Sparky is parked about 15 miles away.

Sparky’s Electric Usage

Fortunately, Amanda’s round-trip work commute is about 29 miles, which comes in under Sparky’s battery capability of 35-42 miles (the number varies from day-to-day).

Detailed figures on this are coming soon.  I just finished “Phase I” of our garage charging project, which consisted of wiring up a dedicated 120V receptacle for the standard charger.  The wiring goes through, but doesn’t connect to, an electric meter (just like you have on the side of your house).  “Phase II” is going to consist of installing a 240V charging station, which will be monitored by the electric meter.  That will get me some good, solid figures on cost-per-electric-mile.

Though I don’t have any real figures, based upon numbers from my local power company (LIPA), we estimate that charging our Volt will cost approximately $2/day. If this is even near true, that’s great:  Amanda was previously spending an average of $5.83/day on gas for the Saab (based upon spending tracked on Mint.com).  She’s also averaged ~$0.68/day worth of gas for the Volt to date, but that still leaves us under the 50% mark for operating cost.

At those numbers, Sparky should save us (and this is a very rough estimate right now) $1,150/year.

Sparky charging in her new home

More to come on Sparky in future posts!

Update (2011-06-08): I have some revised MPG numbers and some further discussion on the topic in a new post:

Sparky: MPG Update

I’ve only recently begun doing my own maintainance and repairs on my Jeep XJ 2000. I’ve hit a few snags and problems along the way, and this page details a solution for the most frustrating I’ve encountered so far. I went to replace both my front rotors, and they were both well beyond stuck to the hub.

I’d been hammering, pushing, pulling, and spraying the old rotors on one fine Saturday for over 3 hours (4 hours if you count the time I took to go to the auto parts store and stop for a beer). Finally it was close to getting dark when one of my neighbors came along and advised that I should rent a rotor puller from a rental place nearby. The place was closed by then, so I told him I’d just kludge something up from what I’d had on hand. He laughed at me and went away.

Below is what I came up with, and it worked like a charm. I’m sure I’m not the first one to do this, but I was pretty pleased with the results, and so I share it with you.

Safety

Needless to say, I claim no responsibility for what happens if you attempt to use the information on this page. This could be dangerous, it could break your tools and/or your car, so emulate it at your own risk.

That having been said, I did this exact procedure for both my front rotors, and absolutely nothing went wrong. It worked great both times, and except for a couple of bent screws on my C-clamps, nothing was damaged. (They were cheap clamps anyway).

This will quite probably damage your rotor. I was completely replacing mine, so I didn’t care. If you are going to have the rotor turned, you might not want to do this, or at least put padding on the clamping surfaces and in front of the hub where the rotor will land when it pops off.

Also, many thanks to all the helpful people on jeepforum.com. I’ve hardly looked at my Haynes manual since I found that site.

What You Need

• 4 C-Clamps
• 1 Bottle jack (came stock w/my Jeep)
• 10 Ft (appx.) strong rope
• 1 Stuck rotor

A hammer and some Liquid Wrench type thing will probably help as well.

The Steps

Step 1 – Spray some penetrating lube/rust remover so it soaks in between the rotor and hub and let it sit for a while.

Step 2 – Attach the first two c-clamps to the area where there is no backer plate (where the caliper sits). Make sure they are gripping the rotor ONLY.

Step 3 – Attach the second two c-clamps such that each one is directly opposite one of the ones you’ve just put on. C-clamps should be spaced as evenly as possible, and tightened well. You may have to jam the second two clamps between the backer plate and the rotor. I didn’t have much trouble at this step, and the backer plate wasn’t damaged by bending it out of the way.

Step 4 – Zip tie the bottle jack to the top two clamps such that the head of the jack rests on the hub.

Step 5 – Close-up of the above. Note there’s a hole in the base of the jack that the zip ties are running thru.

Step 6 – Tie off the end of the rope to one clamp and run it over the base of the jack to the opposite clamp and tie off there. I did 2 turns of rope between each pair of c-clamps for added strength. Repeat for the other pair of clamps so that it looks like this. Make sure the rope is snug so that it holds the jack in place.Also, make sure the jack is as perpendicular as possible to the rotor so that it doesn’t pop off sideways!

Step 7 – With the rope snug, cut the zip ties. You don’t want them snapping off under tension. If the rope isn’t snug enough to hold the jack in place, crank it out a little bit.

Step 8 – Begin cranking out the jack until the ropes are very taut. Keep an eye out for rope fraying, clamp or jack slippage, or knots coming undone. Stand to the side of the jack/rotor, never stand in front of it! It can pop off with great force, and you don’t want it landing on your foot!

Step 9 – As you increase the tension a bit at a time, keep giving the hub/rotor shots of Liquid Wrench (or similar). Give the rotor a few taps from behind, it may pop off with ease. Don’t whack the rotor/jack/etc hard. You don’t want the jack coming loose and flying off under tension!

Step 10 – POP! The rotor flys off. Picture shows exactly where it landed. This one required a LOT of tension; in fact, the jack wouldn’t extend any more.

Step 11 – Closeup of the assembly. The jack and the clamps are undamaged. Again, this may damage your rotor severely, so either don’t do this, or put padding all around if you plan on having the rotor turned and reused.

Step 12 – The Result.